Uncovering Henry Cole’s Travel Diaries: A Journey Through Time and Europe


Research
December 10, 2024

Among its many treasures, the National Art Library at the V&A holds a remarkable set of objects: three travel diaries written by Henry Cole, the museum’s very first director. These notebooks offer a captivating glimpse into Cole’s official journeys across Europe, blending work with exploration and discovery. Join us as we follow Henry Cole’s footsteps in his travels to Vienna, Munich, Rome, Venice, Palermo, and many more destinations!

Colour lithograph print depicting a cartoon of Sir Henry Cole (1808-1882), first director of the museum, 1871. Museum no. E.2178-1932. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

Back to 1851: a mission to Vienna

Our journey begins in 1851, before the V&A (then the South Kensington Museum) had even been established. That year, Henry Cole travelled to Vienna via Dresden, renowned for its Meissen porcelain. He also visited other major cities such as Berlin and Cologne. His mission was diplomatic as well as cultural: to deliver a gift to the Austrian Emperor. Cole travelled with noteworthy companions, including Herbert Minton, owner of the celebrated porcelain and pottery factory.

The Polytechnic in Vienna, photograph by Francis Frith, 1850s-1870s. Museum no. E.208:3700-1994. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

Building the South Kensington Museum

Several years later, in 1863, Cole returned to Vienna, travelling a different itinerary for a new purpose. By then, the South Kensington Museum had opened its doors to the public, and this journey focused on acquiring contemporary and historical objects. The aim was to expand and enrich the collections and provide models for British manufacturing.

(Left) Detail of a page from Henry Cole’s 1863 travel diary, with a list of objects he acquired for the South Kensington Museum from art dealer Friedrich Meyer in Berlin, including (right) a pair of silver-gilt mounts (Museum nos. 8995 and 8996-1863). The latter, from the workshop of Wenzel Jamnitzer (Nuremberg, about 1570-80), were originally part of a cabinet. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

A Mediterranean quest

Cole also travelled extensively in Italy. In 1868, he left London to travel the length of Italy – to Palermo and back. With him was the Royal Engineer Henry Scott, by then in charge of construction at South Kensington. On this trip, Cole planned to learn as much as possible about the history of mosaic and the different techniques used to make them. He also collected notable examples to bring back to Britain – mostly in the form of photographs or replicas. These acquisitions were intended to inspire 19th-century artistic practices, as was part of an effort to promote the use of mosaics as a means to decorate architecture by adding ‘colour for eternity’. While travelling, he also personally chose a great number of objects of different kinds to be added to the museum’s collection.

Replica of a 5th-century mosaic from the Chapel of Galla Placidia in Ravenna, commissioned by Henry Cole while on his journey to Palermo and back to be displayed at the South Kensington Museum (now the V&A). Museum no. REPRO.A.1997-1. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Echoes of Henry Cole: a voice resounding from the library

While Henry Cole’s daily diaries are known thanks to full (yet unpublished) transcriptions which can be consulted in the National Art Library (see HERE for the index to their content), these extraordinary travel diaries deserve more attention.

In 2023, Simona Valeriani, senior lecturer on the V&A/RCA History of Design postgraduate program, and Catherine Yvard, curator in the National Art Library, launched a project to digitize, transcribe, and study these under-researched documents. Thanks to the work carried out by PhD students on placements at the V&A, the project is unearthing a wealth of information. The diaries turn out to be much more than simple travel logs. They provide an insight into important aspects of the early history of the V&A and the School of Design. Moreover, they shed light onto European networks of knowledge and collecting in the 19th century.

From left to right: Henry Cole’s travel diaries of journeys to Vienna in 1851 and 1863, and to Palermo in 1868. Museum nos. MSL/1997/2/1, MSL/1908-4-9-/1 and MSL/1997/2/2 © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

What do the diaries contain?

The diaries are multifaceted objects. Alongside Cole’s observations and sketches, they include lists of items to acquire for the museum, contact details for art dealers, and an assortment of ephemera such as train schedules, restaurant menus, and hotel receipts.

They shed light on:

  • Early collecting practices at the V&A.
  • The vibrant world of 19th-century art dealing.
  • The networks of artists, industrialists, and influential figures Henry Cole relied upon to establish the South Kensington Museum and related institutions.
  • The international inspirations that shaped the museum’s development.

Looking ahead

We are excited to announce this project and look forward to sharing its findings soon on the V&A blog. These diaries offer an invaluable perspective on the origins of the V&A and the cultural exchanges that shaped its mission. Stay tuned as we uncover more about Henry Cole’s fascinating legacy!

About the author


Research
December 10, 2024

I am senior lecturer in History of Design at the V&A's Research Institute (VARI). The History of Architecture and of Technology are my main research interests. My recent work concentrated...

More from Simona Valeriani
0 comments so far, view or add yours

Add a comment

Please read our privacy policy to understand what we do with your data.

MEMBERSHIP

Join today and enjoy unlimited free entry to all V&A exhibitions, Members-only previews and more

Find out more

SHOP

Explore our range of exclusive jewellery, books, gifts and more. Every purchase supports the V&A.

Find out more